Nordic Noir

Ever since we watched ‘The Bridge’ TV show, we’ve wanted to cross it. So planning this trip always including this crossing, rather than taking a ferry from Denmark or Germany to Sweden.

I’m not sure what we expected, but it certainly didn’t live up to it! I suppose now we can say we’ve been over ‘The Bridge’… at a cost of £52.

Feeling spoilt by the ease of parking, wonderful beaches and excellent weather in Denmark; we entered Sweden with slight trepidation.

The Swedish tourism website boasts about ‘Allemansratt’, The Right of Public Access or Freedom to Roam. So parking overnight shouldn’t be a problem and the weather forecast looks like more of the same, bonus.

As we did in Denmark, we planned to hug the coastline, starting with the south and south-east, slowly working to Stockholm.

We chose to skip Malmo, as we’d had our city kick from Copenhagen. Instead we headed straight to the southern beaches.

The first beach we found at Ljunghusan had lovely soft white sand, but dogs were not permitted!

Moving on west of Trelleborg, a popular port used by Germans, we stopped for lunch. The parking was a little overlooked by houses (you cannot make camp within 70m of residential properties); and to be honest a little smelly due to the port. We decided to move on further.

Finally finding a spot by the beach, not the prettiest, but a beach nonetheless. We made camp for the night, sharing it with a German couple, who liked to tell me about our Royal family.

The next day we headed to Ystad, where the TV series Wallander is filmed and set (the original, not Kenneth Branagh). Passing many beaches on the way, all with full car parks due to being a Saturday, we luckily claimed a parking space at a designated (free) motorhome park on the outskirts of town.

Cycling the short distance into town, we locked the bikes up on the high street and set-off on the look out for any streets or buildings we recognise from the TV show.

Walking around the picturesque streets for a couple of hours, we didn’t recognise one site, but it has been a while since we watched it.

With some free popcorn from a local bar, we headed back to the van. Stopping briefly to collect some water from the nearby cemetery (desperate times!).

A brief walk on the beach and it was time for tea and bed.

The next morning we tried our first shop in Sweden, at ICA. After what felt like hours due to working out the new currency, we came away spending only £41. However, this was due to not buying any alcohol, because in Sweden, supermarkets cannot sell anything above 3.5% abv. You can only buy anything worth drinking from Systembolaget, aka The System or The Company.

After the dry shop, we headed west to a dog friendly beach which we could also spend the night. Arriving there too late as all the best spaces were taken by Volvos, we opted for a short walk and to move on instead.

We eventually found our spot for the night, next to a graveyard in a village called Morrum. At least we had a source of water!

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