Leaving the Lofotens we slipped into the flow of motorhomes on their way to Nordkapp, a scene I can only compare to shuffling around the designated walkways of Ikea on a Sunday afternoon; if only we had hotdogs as a reward at the end!
Climbing the E6 we spent a night in the car park of a closed hotel which reminded us of The Shining. With lights still on at night and the doors open to the toilets (to use), it made for a surreal stopover, but views over the fjord were amazing.
We settled next to a Dutch campervan, who under the guise of ‘choccing up’ moved away from us a foot or two. Perhaps we broke the sufficient gap rule – similar to the Urinal Code of Conduct (UCOC) – never place yourself immediately next to the person already in situ.
The next morning tourist coaches arrived for a comfort break as we prepared ourselves for more driving. Continuing the incline while being chased by oil tankers which know the roads and speed limits do not apply to.
Now the road started to descend, the oil tankers which previously overtook us now overtake coaches and cyclists on downward bends!
Elk warning signs are now accompanied by or replaced with reindeer warnings. Laybys are filled with Sami souvenir stalls, where motorhomers can buy reindeer-skin rugs for their Hymer or reindeer-skin slippers to replace their crocs in winter.
We see our first reindeer on the road side, the cynics that we are believe they were placed there like adverts; to please the tourists. So when people back home ask if they saw real reindeer (not deer with a twig strapped to its head in the ‘Winter Wonderland’ at the designer outlet), they can reply with an excited “Yes!”.
Crossing plain like terrain which we envisage parts of America to be like, we expected to see free-roaming reindeer; but sadly we didn’t!
Instead of cowboy horses, ski-mobiles sit patiently outside farmsteads, waiting for their calling when the snow arrives again.
We spent one more night on the road side before the final drive to Nordkapp. Sharing the layby with several motorhomes, one in particular called ‘Swift’. As I tucked into our emergency noodles and tofu, I watched the rather lame owner flop out of his side door, leaning against his home on wheels he made his way to one of his several lockers, useful for storing bikes or most commonly sun-loungers. In this case, a zimmerframe!
I closed our blinds for the night.