Leaving the E6 at Olderfjord, we were finally on the last leg to Valhalla for motorhomers. Just a 2 hour drive on the E69 stood in our way. With Porsangerfjorden to our right and reindeer scattered moorland to our left, it was an interesting journey.
At this stage the excitement, or desire to claim the best spot in the car park becomes unbearable for many. Speed limits are obliterated and the safety of themselves, other road users and poor reindeer are ignored as ‘Dethcleffs’ (read: Deathclubs) and ‘Roller Teams’ are flung round corners and hurtled through narrow cave-like tunnels.
After one last hill climb and a couple of gentle hairpins, like a courteous reminder of the roads you have endured; Nordkapp is there on the horizon.
It was a beautifully clear day and the western sun bounced beems of light off the white motorhomes, all perfectly lined in rows like marble headstones.
We rolled to the entrance gates expecting St. Peter himself, but instead was greeted by a young girl. Without asking how many people we had (because she knows there’s only ever 2 people in motorhomes/campervans despite many of them being 6 berth!) she demanded 550 NOK (225 per person) and tried to up sell us breakfast.
Following campsite etiquette, which we’d previously been ignoring, we left sufficient space between us and our neighbours, allowing them to wind-out their canopy if they wish to do so.
We watched on as other pilgrims celebrated arriving at Valhalla, walking around in their socks and sandals and a bottle of beer or glass of fizz in hand as they chatted with old and newly acquired friends. Some took the necessary photos of their beloved ‘hotel on wheels’, even going to the extreme of using a step-ladder to achieve the best angle.
Others applied the Elk silhouette sticker – I’m not sure the rules on when this can be applied, is it when visiting Scandinavia, upon sight of Elk or making it to Nordkapp?
Either way, we don’t have one because it wouldn’t work on a black campervan!
During our enjoyment of people watching the ground started to shake and a darkness fell over us. We looked around in confusion as it was only 5pm and the sun most certainly doesn’t set here at this time of year.
Oh no, nothing biblical was occurring, just the largest great white shark of a motorhome was circling for a space.
Like a beach goer on Amity Island dragging their child out of the sea, I quickly pulled Stanley into the van as I knew there was only one place this monster could park; next to the black van because all the others have avoided it!
Besides 24 hour parking, we had a wander to see what else we got for our money:- a few monuments, a restaurant to eat at, a gift shop, a chapel, a shrine to the King of Thailand after his visit and a cinema which shows a 15 minute film of life around Nordkapp through all seasons.
A mixture of fast paced drone shots and footage of local people going about their daily life, overlayed with dramatic music, creates a film which bizarrely transists from James Bond to The League of Gentlemen with every season.
After a browse in the gift shop, which we were unable to afford anything with the 50 NOK coin we found (approx. 50p), we settled down for the most patriotic dinner we could rustle up before the semi-final:- Corned beef, smash potato and mushy peas!
As male pilgrims lingered around their motorhomes, hands clasped behind backs waiting patiently as the wife prepared dinner, we settled down to stream the big match, which thankfully wasn’t hindered by the big rig next door, but unfortunately the game didn’t go our way this time.
The sun had set on England’s World Cup adventure and also marked a change in ours, but for everybody that night at Nordkapp, in whatever and however they got there; the sun didn’t set as we all joined to enjoy the midnight sun.